There are certain plants which work much harder for you in the Garden than others and perennial Nemesias would be right at the top of my list of such plants. In this case perennial means that they can be overwintered, but are not necessarily hardy, although a few of them are. They are members of the Scrophulariaceae family which includes Snapdragons, Diascia and Foxgloves, all of which have characteristically “pouch” shaped flowers. Annual Nemesia became popular in Victorian times as a bedding plant with its gaudy brightly coloured flowers, but has lost favour to longer flowering candidates such as Petunias and Impatiens. Perennial Nemesias on the other hand have soared in popularity in recent years, and for good reason. Although not all of them are hardy, they are all cold tolerant and can be planted out early (April) and thrive in our fickle Summers. They will flower virtually nonstop from April until October and most have a lovely fragrance, attractive to bees. They are untroubled by pests or disease but require a sunny position. If plants become tall and leggy they can be sheared back right to the ground and will be back in flower in a couple of weeks time.

Two of the hardiest varieties are “Confetti” (shell pink) and “Celebration” (lilac) which should survive temperatures down to at least -8C. “Wisley Vanilla” and “Innocence” are not hardy but have extremely fragrant creamy white flowers with a yellow eye, making them very popular as a patio plant to perfume your Summer evenings. “Amelie” is a compact grower with lovely rose pink fragrant flowers, and remarkably survived unprotected in my garden and is now coming into flower. “Raspberries and Cream” (red/white) and “Berries and Cream” (purple/white) are very striking bi-coloured varieties; “Framboise” (dusky rose) and “Mirabelle” (dusky blue) have that lovely soft washed out look of Provence! Others to look out for are “FleurieBlue” (clear blue, compact and hardy) and “Ice Pink” (rose lilac, compact and near hardy.)

At last some decent weather, so planting and seed sowing in the vegetable garden can begin in earnest. Its very tempting, especially for beginners, to start too early, but it is the patient gardener who will get the earliest and heaviest crops. The recent warm dry weather has really helped to improve soil conditions making it easier to dig and break up into a fine crumbly “tilth” which is a prerequisite for successful seed sowing. From the end of March onwards many of the hardier crops, e.g. lettuce, spring onions, radish, spinach, rocket, swede and carrots can be sown direct into the ground. For extra early crops simple low polythene tunnels are the cheapest and best way of advancing crops, and also protects plants and seedlings from birds and pests. Sow seed as thinly as possible as overcrowding will lead to disease and undersized produce. Thin seedlings if necessary.

Alternatively you can now buy a wide range of vegetable plants from Garden Centres but beginners beware! Not all of the plants offered for sale will be suitable for immediate outdoor planting, and some will require a greenhouse. If in doubt seek advice from a member of staff. If you have an unheated greenhouse tomatoes are usually safe to plant around the 3rd week of April. Until then leave them in their pots on a sunny window ledge in the house. Cucumbers are notorious for intolerance to cold weather and will keel over and die if the nights are too cold. Avoid planting therefore until well into May.

Broad beans are frost hardy (can be planted from mid March) but runner and french beans are not (avoid planting out until mid-May). Marrows, courgettes, squash, pumpkins, sweet corn and melons can all be killed by late Spring frosts which can strike up until the middle of May. Potatoes can be planted from the end of March but the frost tender shoots should be covered with soil as they emerge (earthing up) until the frost risk has passed. Always keep an eye on the forecast and have some “fleece” to hand to protect any tender plants.